What is the best way to relieve built-up stress, get some exercise and catch up with old friends? For me, hiking is the definite answer to this question. Truth be told, hiking in nature is probably a lot better for you, but even everyday tours across the city can do miracles for your mood and overall wellbeing.
When it comes to Belgrade, I have checked every nook and cranny over the past 30 years and I can tell you that there are a lot of paths you can take that will allow you to experience this city from a fresh perspective every time.
Bear in mind that these tracks are not in any particular order and that some may be more physically demanding than others. However, each is unique in its own way, and I believe that you should check them all out when you find the time.
Slavija Square to Kalemegdan Fortress
The first destination for everyone who visits Belgrade is usually the city center. Now depending on who you ask, it turns out that finding the said center is not as easy as it looks, but most would agree that it’s located somewhere along the lines of Slavija Square and Knez Mihailova.
So, if you are a fan of the urban buzz and you want to check out historical landmarks of Belgrade such as Prince Mihailo Monument, Skadarlija Street, Belgrade City Library, and Kalemegdan, you can do it all during one single hike.
If this is not enough for you, you can always check out Dorcol and head back to Skadarlija for a drink or a bite to eat. Many claim that this cobbled street full of interesting restaurants keeps the tradition of old Belgrade alive.
Zemunski Kej
If river walks are your cup of tea, perhaps the best way to start your hiking tour of Belgrade is right at the legendary Zemunski Kej.
Spanning from Gardoš Hill to New Belgrade, this path is approximately 4 km long and is ideal for hiking, bike riding, or jogging. Zemunski Kej has plenty of benches where you can rest in the shade, or you can head over to one of the restaurants on the water or on the shore.
For those who want more, you can continue your hike along the New Belgrade Sava riverfront or perhaps cross the Branko’s bridge and head over to the city center. This part of the city is very popular with people of all ages, and it is especially visited during the warmer months of the year when it’s at its most beautiful.
Avala mountain
Avala is probably the most recognized mountain near Belgrade, making it a can’t-miss destination for all local hikers. In my honest opinion, although you definitely should visit it, chances are that it will not blow you away, as Avala is now also a popular residential area, meaning that not much of the mountain was left untouched for outdoor enthusiasts.
For those who are hiking with children, or are not in the mood for serious trail passes, Avala can still be a good choice.
Several trails can get you to the very top of the mountain, but you can also visit other features such as one of many churches, lake Pariguz, Avala Tower, or the Monument to the Unknown Hero. No matter which route you take, the difficulty should vary between easy and moderate, which is ideal for family outdoor activities.
Kalvarija Hill and Zemun
In my opinion, this is the most underrated part of Zemun. While most people flock to Kej or the Great War Island, Kalvarija gets left behind, which is great news for the locals or others who want to keep this gem hidden. You can reach Kalvarija from the street Tošin bunar by walking up the colorful stairway, where each of the steps holds the name of a famous person from Zemun.
Once you cover the 128 steps and reach the top, you will be rewarded with a great view of Zemun and New Belgrade from a neat little park. You can always catch your breath there as well on one of many benches, that seem to be free most of the time.
If you happen to get hungry in the process, just walk down to Prvomajska Street, a place brimming with different fast food options, and a few restaurants which offer great food for relatively cheap. From there, you can move on to other parts of Zemun like Meandri or Donji i Novi grad, which are not glamorous but have a lot of interesting narrow streets that I’m sure you’ll like.
Great War Island
Only available to visitors during the summer months when it can be reached by walking across the pontoon, the Great War Island is one of the rare pieces of wilderness that’s left in Belgrade.
Located right across the Zemunski Kej, it’s a popular destination for Zemun residents, and Lido, a long sandy beach is an integral part of the Great War Island.
When it comes to hiking, all nature lovers will be pleasantly surprised by this place, especially the unique birds you can see everywhere. There are also some wild hogs here, but it’s best to keep your distance from them at all times, or your hike can quickly turn into a full-on sprint.
Ada Ciganlija
With a circle track of just below 8km around the Ada peninsula, this hiking spot is of perfect length for people who want to enjoy a casual stroll when the weather is nice.
Unfortunately, you won’t be the only person who came up with this idea, as Ada remains one of the most popular gathering sights for people of Belgrade. This is especially true during the summer months, when the temperatures are in the forties.
In case hiking becomes a bit monotonous, it does not matter if you are a fan of river sports, football, basketball, tennis, or even golf, you can pursue these fun activities here using one of many public or private playing fields. Ada is also a great spot for those who love bike riding. It is possible to rack up the kilometers far away from the traffic using a dedicated bike lane.
Just be mindful of the crowds you’re bound to encounter during the weekends. As you might imagine, a plethora of coffee shops and restaurants are always full of people and welcoming visitors who want to take a short break and enjoy the river view.
Byford’s Forest
Even though Byford’s Forest is the official name, this location is a lot better known as Banjicka Suma (Banjica forest), named after the part of the city where it’s located. While the forest is not particularly large, it has several hiking trails, which offer a tremendous getaway from the city noise.
A run track was built here as well, making it an ideal location for those who want to go for a jog in the fresh air.
The forest is also home to interesting plants and birds, where besides the buzzards you can also find sparrows, pigeons and occasionally even hawks, although I’ve never seen one in person, but I have heard people’s stories that confirm this info.
Kosmaj Mountain
Less than an hour’s drive away from Belgrade is the popular weekend destination Kosmaj mountain, known as the highest point in the Belgrade area. Mind you, that doesn’t mean that it’s particularly high either, as it just exceeds 600 meters, so no serious mountaineering is possible here.
However, if some light hiking is what you’re after, Kosmaj can deliver. This forested mountainous area also draws in people who like to gather around the barbecue and have a beer or two. If you mix in some hiking before all that, you can make a nice day out of it.
You can start your journey near the Tresija monastery from where you go uphill, and if you follow a round track, about 8km of easy hiking later, you’ll be back in your starting position.
On one of the peaks of Kosmaj, there is a monument to the Kosmaj Partisan Detachment. This monumental 30-meter-tall concrete monument is one of the finest examples of brutalist architecture in Belgrade.
Gradac River Gorge
Once again, although technically not a part of Belgrade, Gradac is easily accessible by car, so I had to place it on this list. As one of the cleanest rivers in Serbia, Gradac is well known among all nature lovers, and the canyon it created is suitable for those fond of hiking. I visited this place on day trip from Belgrade during a particularly hot summer, on a 43c day, so I was very much looking forward to the chilly Gradac water.
Still, nothing could’ve prepared me for how chilly it would actually be, as this small mountain river is usually around 15 degrees. Why is this important? Well, the 12 km long hiking trail actually requires you to cross the shallow river several times, and let me tell you something, you will feel it. On a more positive note, this trail is extremely clean and beautiful with a lot of natural caves, springs, and forests which are bound to leave a long-lasting impression on every visitor.
Košutnjak Forrest
A forested area of Belgrade that got its name thanks to the doe (košuta = doe) that were once present here, as this entire forest used to be a popular hunting ground.
Nowadays, it’s one of the greenest parts of Belgrade, with plenty of recreational facilities and the only ski track you can find in the area. A popular 10km long hiking route that goes through Košutnjak, parts of Rakovica and Pionirski grad can be found online, and is of ideal length for a 3-hour adventure.
It also has a long 1,2 km long trim track, where thousands of people gather to work out. Now, this might not be really all that important to people who love hiking, but I have to mention that Košutnjak is home to some of the best restaurants Belgrade has to offer, along with stunning viewpoints of Belgrade and the surrounding areas.
Lazaro Cardenas path and Savski Kej
A hiking path that covers 4 different blocks in New Belgrade, named after Lazaro Cardenas is one of the best-kept parks in the city. It was recently remodeled in 2023, and it now has plenty of children’s playgrounds, dog obstacle courses, benches, and most importantly, a lot of greenery to take away all the unnecessary stress of everyday living.
Although this path is flat, it’s not always the first choice for hikers who want to get their heart rate going, but it is an ideal place for all the locals and others who prefer a relaxing hike. You can also turn towards the river Sava at any point and perhaps sit for a drink there or just walk alongside it and let your mind wander.
Kalemegdan Fortress and Dunavski Kej
This is the second time that Kalemegdan found its way onto this list, but as one of Belgrade’s most recognizable features located in the city center, this should come as no shock. If you start your hike from the direction of Knez Mihailova Street, you can follow the left-hand side and go all the way to the Kalemegdan Zoo, from where you will head downhill towards the Dunavski Kej (Danube Quay).
Just follow along the pedestrian zone by the Danube for as long as you like. In case you get bored by it, you’ll have the option of crossing a pedestrian bridge that takes you to Kalemegdan again. A great thing about this path is that it’s usually not too crowded and it is equally as beautiful as other quays mentioned on this list. It might just be my favorite of the bunch for that very reason.
Zagajicka brda
To tell you the truth, I wasn’t entirely sure whether I should include this destination on the list or not, as it takes about an hour and a half by car to reach it from Belgrade. Still, I love it so much that it simply had to find its way here. What makes it so special?
Depending on the time of year, Zagajicka Brda (Hills), or the larger area known as Deliblatska pescara (Deliblato sands) is a piece of desert-like nature in a country that has a moderate climate. Additionally, it can look entirely green and covered with flowers in case you visit it during spring, or truly void of any plants during the colder months. Either way, it’s never too crowded, has a nice track for hiking and is peaceful year-round.
Rajac
Although I know that Rajac is 100km away from Belgrade, this mountain is easily accessible by car and it is one of the most serene mountains, ideal for hikers. Unlike most other entries from this list, Rajac offers true long-distance hiking paths, as one of the most popular trails is 19km long, while the longer one stands at 31 km.
I would recommend you to visit it during spring when the green landscape looks the best, and even though winter also has its charms, the winds can be too strong for comfort, as parts of the trail are not forested. This also has its advantages, as the views of the surrounding areas are absolutely beautiful, which you can see from the image above.
